There's one thing all surfers have in common: before going to sleep, the ritual of checking the forecast for the next day. But how many times have you gotten to the peak excited only to find out that the waves weren't worth it? Reading a forecast is almost an art, but once you understand it, you'll be able to go to places where the waves are better and that will allow you to improve faster.
Let's break down the Hossegor part you have here, one of the most legendary spots in Europe, where the waves can be epic... or a soup.
1. Swell direction and size
One of the most important pieces of information we see in a forecast is the size, which tells us how high the wave is in the open sea. A small size is not always bad. It will depend a lot on the period that we will mention later. The piece of information that is very important here is the direction of the swell. Each wave works with a specific swell, and it is vital that you know what type of direction works for each wave.
2. Period
The second piece of information that is vital to a good analysis of the swell direction is the period, measured in seconds, which is the time that passes between one wave and another. A longer period (over 12 seconds) implies more defined and powerful waves, while shorter periods usually result in rough seas.
3. Wave energy
Swell strength is an indicator of how much energy a wave has when it reaches the shore. The higher the number, the more powerful the wave. This value depends on several factors, such as swell size, period, and direction.
4. Wind
Wind is another big factor in whether the day will be epic or a dud. Here we find words like “cross-on,” “off,” or “glass.”
- Glass: The sea is as clear as a plate. It is usually the best condition.
- On shore: When we see Cross, or cross on it means that the wind is coming from the sea to the beach. The waves break up prematurely and lose shape, the water surface becomes messy and full of foam and in general the conditions worsen.
- Off Shore: The wind blows from the beach towards the sea. For certain types of waves, this can be the best condition, since this type of wind shapes the wave and keeps it strong, making it have more shape and last longer.
5. Tides
Finally, another very important fact is the tide. Each wave works with a specific type of tide. You will have to see what is the best time for each spot you want to go to. Once you have this figured out, you will know what is the ideal time of day to go into the water.
Ultimately, there are several factors that have to align for the conditions to be perfect. If one or more of them fail, it doesn't have to stop you from being able to grab your softboard and go surfing, but if you know the beach well, it will be much easier to predict your balis and you won't have to spend hours searching the coast.